Hello everyone,
It is far too cold. Culture shock in addition to the frigid temperatures is making a fairly amusing somewhat painful transition back home for a few weeks. It was a bit of sensory overload sitting at the Paris airport waiting to come home. Good Food, electronic everything, so many people, Christmas Decor, intercom systems, Prada (I remind you I live on about $3 a day…on average)…
Did I mention it’s cold? I had a long sleeve t-shirt and one last pair of pants that still has the butt in a semi presentable condition (though wearing very thin) and tennis shoes to greet this winter weather...thank God for winter clothes and parents who remembered to bring them to the airport!
Thanksgiving in San was fantastic and delicious though I’m not too disappointed that it was my last one in Mali. Justin and I left the following day and made it all the way north to Bandiagara where we stayed the night in preparation to go to another SED volunteer’s (Andy) sight on Saturday morning called Djigibombo. Justin and I biked the 25 kilometers uphill to Djigibombo and after some recovery time, went out for an afternoon hike. The real hike was Sunday morning when Andy’s homologue took Justin and I on a 12ish kilometer hike up and down and all around the Dogon cliffs. It was a beautiful day and an absolutely perfect way to celebrate Thanksgiving and my rapidly approaching trip home. Rumor has it, the pygmies of central Africa are descendants from the Telmen people who long ago resided in the cliffs in Dogon country and we investigated the old houses (well, the remains of) of these tiny people during the hike. It was pretty entertaining seeing Justin standing next to one of the houses…he’s a tall guy, but these houses came up just past his hip.
We left Djigibombo early Monday morning and made great time getting home…until I blew my tire… Oh well, we met some nice people at a surrounding village who fixed it up for us and allowed us to continue on our way without too much of a delay. I spent one night in Sevare and then left for San where I did my last minute packing then caught the 5am bus down to Bamako on Wednesday. It’s been a whirlwind ever since Thanksgiving and even before that because my last stint at site was busy as well. I finished up my Christmas shopping in Bamako and had a fairly painless trip home. When my biggest complaint is the cold weather, I think I’m one lucky lady.
I have so much I want and hope to do in Kentucky I don’t anticipate it to be a leisurely Christmas vacation and I’m so excited for it. I only have 3 weeks so I’m going to make the most of it!
Much love,
Cait
Thanksgiving
Hey Everyone,
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
It’s my last Thanksgiving away from home and I’m mixed between joy and sadness. I left this morning from site and will not return until after the New Year. It was an emotional goodbye this morning and it gave me a preview of what it will be like when I actually leave next fall. My family here is so excited that I’m going home to be with my family for Christmas. They know everyone by name and told me to greet Cathy, Chuck, Molly, Becky and their husbands (and Allison of course). It means so much to me that they know my family and want to know my family.
My last few weeks have been busy and flown by. I went up to Bandiagara for a friend’s birthday and on the way home on what should have been a 3 hour bus ride became a 7 hour ride bus ride. The delay consisted of loading about 150 sheep on the top of the bus, under the bus…and in the bus.
I eventually made it back to site for the last time and fittingly my tire blew out just 2 kilometers from site (which I took as a good sign because I was close enough to walk and the sun wasn’t too high yet). I brought back with me the finalized papers for my animal raising association and we had a presentation with the chief of the village giving the papers to the president of the Cooperation.
I also decided to paint a world map at my school. It’s a first cycle school which is the equivalent of an elementary school and I painted on the “principles” office. It turned out really well and I finished on Monday with just enough time to pack and do some chores at home before coming into San for Thanksgiving. It was more of an undertaking than I first anticipated not necessarily regarding the drawing and the painting, but the kids. They were ceaseless in their questions and even if they weren’t talking to me they were whispering or just sitting and staring.
Last Wednesday was the biggest Muslim holiday of the year, Tabaski. I live in a Christian village and thus we didn’t celebrate like the rest of the country but Bah’s best friend is Muslim so we went to his house for a mini feast! It was delicious but of course of all the yummy sheep meat, they gave me the organs. I suffered through a few bites because it is such an honor is given the “best meat” but man it tastes so bad. Makes me think I could get through some of those road blocks on the Amazing Race if I had too. I’ve eaten more disgusting things then I can count in the past year and a half.
With that said, I’m more than looking forward to our feast today of our closest approximation of a good old fashioned American Thanksgiving meal.
I’m going on a hike in Dogon country then heading down to Bamako on the first and will then fly home on the night of the 3rd! I’m so excited to see everyone and hope everyone has a fabulous Thanksgiving.
Much love,
Cait
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
It’s my last Thanksgiving away from home and I’m mixed between joy and sadness. I left this morning from site and will not return until after the New Year. It was an emotional goodbye this morning and it gave me a preview of what it will be like when I actually leave next fall. My family here is so excited that I’m going home to be with my family for Christmas. They know everyone by name and told me to greet Cathy, Chuck, Molly, Becky and their husbands (and Allison of course). It means so much to me that they know my family and want to know my family.
My last few weeks have been busy and flown by. I went up to Bandiagara for a friend’s birthday and on the way home on what should have been a 3 hour bus ride became a 7 hour ride bus ride. The delay consisted of loading about 150 sheep on the top of the bus, under the bus…and in the bus.
I eventually made it back to site for the last time and fittingly my tire blew out just 2 kilometers from site (which I took as a good sign because I was close enough to walk and the sun wasn’t too high yet). I brought back with me the finalized papers for my animal raising association and we had a presentation with the chief of the village giving the papers to the president of the Cooperation.
I also decided to paint a world map at my school. It’s a first cycle school which is the equivalent of an elementary school and I painted on the “principles” office. It turned out really well and I finished on Monday with just enough time to pack and do some chores at home before coming into San for Thanksgiving. It was more of an undertaking than I first anticipated not necessarily regarding the drawing and the painting, but the kids. They were ceaseless in their questions and even if they weren’t talking to me they were whispering or just sitting and staring.
Last Wednesday was the biggest Muslim holiday of the year, Tabaski. I live in a Christian village and thus we didn’t celebrate like the rest of the country but Bah’s best friend is Muslim so we went to his house for a mini feast! It was delicious but of course of all the yummy sheep meat, they gave me the organs. I suffered through a few bites because it is such an honor is given the “best meat” but man it tastes so bad. Makes me think I could get through some of those road blocks on the Amazing Race if I had too. I’ve eaten more disgusting things then I can count in the past year and a half.
With that said, I’m more than looking forward to our feast today of our closest approximation of a good old fashioned American Thanksgiving meal.
I’m going on a hike in Dogon country then heading down to Bamako on the first and will then fly home on the night of the 3rd! I’m so excited to see everyone and hope everyone has a fabulous Thanksgiving.
Much love,
Cait
Novemeber 2, 2010
Hey everyone,
Hope you all had a fantastic Halloween and November isn’t bringing in too much cold weather. Site has been busy harvesting the rice, peanuts and millet thus my past few weeks have been occupied picking peanuts and carrying baskets of millet on my head…I was not graceful.
The men’s animal raising association I’ve been working with to obtain their legal status as a cooperative finally finished and I’m so happy to say that, the document called a recipcee, has been taken and stamped by our local department of justice thus ending 10 months of savings, red tape, delays and bribes. The men now have access to government loans which is practically impossible for people living in the brush to acquire and thus creating opportunities for profits to be made which they wouldn’t have otherwise.
While rainy season has essentially come to an end it has rained twice in the past two weeks giving a brief reprieve of mini hot season. The nights, unlike during hot season, cool down and with the rains all but over, I’ve been enjoying being well rested sleeping outside. My homologue even built me a small gate to put up to keep the donkeys and sheep out of my yard and eating my papaya trees at night.
A few nights ago I had a fantastic conversation with my homologue on womens and men’s role in the US versus Mali which is so vastly different. They are always so concerned that I am not yet married and do not plan to be in my near future. They always ask if how I will live back home where I have no man to give me money…they were blown away that I have to work and earn my own money in addition to housework. I’m pretty confident that they are now convinced I’m crazy or lying through my teeth but it was a pretty interesting cultural exchange.
Listening to BBC World Service is my lifeline to current events. A few nights ago, Obama was aired when he addressed the two suspected bombs found originating in Yemen. I decided to try to test the waters on the topic of terrorism with my homologue and his friends and was surprised to find a fairly sound understanding of Al-Qaida and was fascinated to hear their opinions regarding their activities. Muslim extremists are active in the north of Mali just as they are in most of North Africa. The men in my village do not live in fear of terrorism but they do understand the rest of the world will be less inclined to help their country if it is associated in any with Al-Qaida and have thus formed some distinct opinions.
I’m heading up north to Bandiagara to help paint a world map at a school and to celebrate a friend’s birthday for a few days and when I return home, it will be for about two weeks. When I leave for San on the 24th for Thanksgiving, I won’t be back until the New Year. I’m leaving for home on December 3 and my return flight to Mali is on the 27th. I’m so looking forward to being home to celebrate the holidays with my family. I can’t believe my service is 2/3 over…where did the time go? Sorry it has been so long since my last update but fear not, I’m in great health and great spirits. Can’t wait to see Kentucky again!
Much love,
Cait
Hope you all had a fantastic Halloween and November isn’t bringing in too much cold weather. Site has been busy harvesting the rice, peanuts and millet thus my past few weeks have been occupied picking peanuts and carrying baskets of millet on my head…I was not graceful.
The men’s animal raising association I’ve been working with to obtain their legal status as a cooperative finally finished and I’m so happy to say that, the document called a recipcee, has been taken and stamped by our local department of justice thus ending 10 months of savings, red tape, delays and bribes. The men now have access to government loans which is practically impossible for people living in the brush to acquire and thus creating opportunities for profits to be made which they wouldn’t have otherwise.
While rainy season has essentially come to an end it has rained twice in the past two weeks giving a brief reprieve of mini hot season. The nights, unlike during hot season, cool down and with the rains all but over, I’ve been enjoying being well rested sleeping outside. My homologue even built me a small gate to put up to keep the donkeys and sheep out of my yard and eating my papaya trees at night.
A few nights ago I had a fantastic conversation with my homologue on womens and men’s role in the US versus Mali which is so vastly different. They are always so concerned that I am not yet married and do not plan to be in my near future. They always ask if how I will live back home where I have no man to give me money…they were blown away that I have to work and earn my own money in addition to housework. I’m pretty confident that they are now convinced I’m crazy or lying through my teeth but it was a pretty interesting cultural exchange.
Listening to BBC World Service is my lifeline to current events. A few nights ago, Obama was aired when he addressed the two suspected bombs found originating in Yemen. I decided to try to test the waters on the topic of terrorism with my homologue and his friends and was surprised to find a fairly sound understanding of Al-Qaida and was fascinated to hear their opinions regarding their activities. Muslim extremists are active in the north of Mali just as they are in most of North Africa. The men in my village do not live in fear of terrorism but they do understand the rest of the world will be less inclined to help their country if it is associated in any with Al-Qaida and have thus formed some distinct opinions.
I’m heading up north to Bandiagara to help paint a world map at a school and to celebrate a friend’s birthday for a few days and when I return home, it will be for about two weeks. When I leave for San on the 24th for Thanksgiving, I won’t be back until the New Year. I’m leaving for home on December 3 and my return flight to Mali is on the 27th. I’m so looking forward to being home to celebrate the holidays with my family. I can’t believe my service is 2/3 over…where did the time go? Sorry it has been so long since my last update but fear not, I’m in great health and great spirits. Can’t wait to see Kentucky again!
Much love,
Cait
September 29, 2010
Hello everyone
I’ve had a great past week at site. The rains are only coming once or twice a week so I can start sleeping outside again thus I’m much better rested because I’m not drenched in sweat by the time I wake up in my hut. I didn’t realize it, but for much of the past year I’ve slept outside and it’s so nice to be back in the beautiful outdoors. Also, sleeping inside my hut comes with its own hazards. The intense rains we’ve had severely weaken the roofs of our mud huts (seeing as they’re made of mud) and many people are killed each year by collapsing roofs. And to think, I was just scared of the scorpions and creepy crawlies.
I also haven’t been able to get to my market town because the road was under water until this past
Thursday. The mosquitoes are still a menace but they’ll only be around for a few weeks which seem totally manageable after getting two rainy seasons under my belt.
I had a pretty entertaining conversation with my homologue the other day. There is a pretty common belief among Malians living on bruce that all white people know each other. I can honestly see how this misconception was created as the only white people many Malians on bruce know are Peace Corps volunteers who seem to all know each other. Thus, the other day I was asked about this white person who they couldn’t remember the name of. They described a tall guy who lived nearby. I guessed all the volunteers who just left and they finally remembered the name and said he was a volunteer who served in 1996-98…and they couldn’t understand how and why I did not know him.
If anyone would like an enjoyable read I’ll recommend a book I’ve just finished. It’s called Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. It’s a man’s journey from Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa and all the countries in between down eastern Africa. He is a sarcastic and insightful writer who both answers questions, raises them, is painfully honest and at times just a stubborn old man. Through his travels he evaluates social, political and economic problems facing the continent while providing incredibly vivid written pictures. While Mali is on the other side of the continent, I laughed out loud at some of the descriptions that are spot on accurate of life here. The death trap of African transport, the stability on bruce vs the chaos of city, the bribes demanded by the police, endless corruption, lack of food security, misguided donor money, etc are all detailed in the book. The author was a Peace Corps volunteer long ago and it was interesting to see some of the similar views we shared with regard to development work among other things.
September 22 was the 50th anniversary of Malian Independence and we had a huge party in my commune capital, Bolokalasso. It was no comparison to Bamako where there were military and police and many others paraded through the streets of Bamako and there were parachutes and heads of state from all over Africa who were in attendance. I was more than happy to celebrate in my village with my village hunters dressing up in traditional dress and shooting off their guns after each speech by the local figureheads like the mayor and police and doctor. There was singing and dancing and a big feast of rice, but the highlight of the party was the kids potato sack races and their version of a piñata. A bunch of little cakes were tied to a tree and the kids were blindfolded and spun around and left to wonder aimlessly with their arms stretched out grabbing the air for the treats. It was hilarious!
I wasn’t planning on coming into San today, but I unexpectedly got to set up a meeting with a man to finish legalizing our paperwork for the animal raising cooperation I’m starting in my village. Things are standstill for weeks and then I have to drop everything and get to work but such is life in Mali and I’m grateful to continue the process. Once we get the actual papers I’m scheduling a small conference in my village led by a Peace Corps orator on proper management of the cooperation as well the potential for profit they now have being legally recognized by the government. Of course this means they need to start some sort of bookkeeping as currently my homologue is the only one with any sort of idea how much money he is putting into the sheep before he sells them to know his profit margin.
I’ll probably be at site for a while unless I have another unexpected meeting arise which is always a possibility, but in all likelihood, I’ll write again the next time I have internet which will probably be around October 15th when I head up to Sevare for two or three days.
All my love,
Cait
I’ve had a great past week at site. The rains are only coming once or twice a week so I can start sleeping outside again thus I’m much better rested because I’m not drenched in sweat by the time I wake up in my hut. I didn’t realize it, but for much of the past year I’ve slept outside and it’s so nice to be back in the beautiful outdoors. Also, sleeping inside my hut comes with its own hazards. The intense rains we’ve had severely weaken the roofs of our mud huts (seeing as they’re made of mud) and many people are killed each year by collapsing roofs. And to think, I was just scared of the scorpions and creepy crawlies.
I also haven’t been able to get to my market town because the road was under water until this past
Thursday. The mosquitoes are still a menace but they’ll only be around for a few weeks which seem totally manageable after getting two rainy seasons under my belt.
I had a pretty entertaining conversation with my homologue the other day. There is a pretty common belief among Malians living on bruce that all white people know each other. I can honestly see how this misconception was created as the only white people many Malians on bruce know are Peace Corps volunteers who seem to all know each other. Thus, the other day I was asked about this white person who they couldn’t remember the name of. They described a tall guy who lived nearby. I guessed all the volunteers who just left and they finally remembered the name and said he was a volunteer who served in 1996-98…and they couldn’t understand how and why I did not know him.
If anyone would like an enjoyable read I’ll recommend a book I’ve just finished. It’s called Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. It’s a man’s journey from Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa and all the countries in between down eastern Africa. He is a sarcastic and insightful writer who both answers questions, raises them, is painfully honest and at times just a stubborn old man. Through his travels he evaluates social, political and economic problems facing the continent while providing incredibly vivid written pictures. While Mali is on the other side of the continent, I laughed out loud at some of the descriptions that are spot on accurate of life here. The death trap of African transport, the stability on bruce vs the chaos of city, the bribes demanded by the police, endless corruption, lack of food security, misguided donor money, etc are all detailed in the book. The author was a Peace Corps volunteer long ago and it was interesting to see some of the similar views we shared with regard to development work among other things.
September 22 was the 50th anniversary of Malian Independence and we had a huge party in my commune capital, Bolokalasso. It was no comparison to Bamako where there were military and police and many others paraded through the streets of Bamako and there were parachutes and heads of state from all over Africa who were in attendance. I was more than happy to celebrate in my village with my village hunters dressing up in traditional dress and shooting off their guns after each speech by the local figureheads like the mayor and police and doctor. There was singing and dancing and a big feast of rice, but the highlight of the party was the kids potato sack races and their version of a piñata. A bunch of little cakes were tied to a tree and the kids were blindfolded and spun around and left to wonder aimlessly with their arms stretched out grabbing the air for the treats. It was hilarious!
I wasn’t planning on coming into San today, but I unexpectedly got to set up a meeting with a man to finish legalizing our paperwork for the animal raising cooperation I’m starting in my village. Things are standstill for weeks and then I have to drop everything and get to work but such is life in Mali and I’m grateful to continue the process. Once we get the actual papers I’m scheduling a small conference in my village led by a Peace Corps orator on proper management of the cooperation as well the potential for profit they now have being legally recognized by the government. Of course this means they need to start some sort of bookkeeping as currently my homologue is the only one with any sort of idea how much money he is putting into the sheep before he sells them to know his profit margin.
I’ll probably be at site for a while unless I have another unexpected meeting arise which is always a possibility, but in all likelihood, I’ll write again the next time I have internet which will probably be around October 15th when I head up to Sevare for two or three days.
All my love,
Cait
September 16, 2010
I’m in Bamako and am pleased to say it was the most pleasant experience on Malian transport I’ve had thus far. It only took 8 hours and while my friend Holly and I had to wake up at 4:30 to get to the gare in the pouring down rain, the actual bus ride was relatively delightful. No break downs, not unbearably hot while at the same time having most all the windows in tact so minimal leaks and water dripping onto us. Successful trip and made it to Bamako in under 9 hours. Afterward Holly and I ran some errands around town and met up with a former volunteer in San, Jen, who just moved to Bamako for a third year. She has her own apartment with a shower and toilet and fans…one lucky lady.
My mid service exam didn’t go quite as planned starting early on with my blood work. Peace Corps provided transport to the blood work facility in Bamako and while waiting for my turn I could feel myself getting nervous while evaluating the cleanliness of the building and staff. While all appeared to be in good condition (considering I live in one of the poorest countries in the world) I still couldn’t help getting in my mind and getting way too agitated. Thus before the nurse even got near enough to pick up the needle I knew I wouldn’t make it. After telling the staff in Bambara that I was falling down I came too in the arms of two doctors. They were both attractive so it wasn’t the worst way to come out of a fainting spell but still embarrassing because there is no privacy wall and the whole waiting room got to witness the fall. It wasn’t graceful either. I hit my head on the way down and then had to be helped to the bathroom where I promptly threw up…Mali won yet again. Passing out takes a lot out of you and much of the rest of the day was spent resting and finishing up the rest of my physical exam back at the Peace Corps bureau. I faced my fear by going to get my teeth cleaned at the scary dentist and while it was certainly not a pleasant trip at least it’s over now and when I COS in less than a year I get vouchers to go to my dentist back home. I’m happy to report that all the results thus far have come out and I’m in about as good of health as can be expected so hopefully can maintain my standard of health for another year.
I’m headed back to San tomorrow hopefully with Peace Corps transport. My boss is headed up to the region of Mopti for some site prospective and Holly, Justin and I are hopefully getting to ride along for free and AC!!!! God willing!
I’ve been so blessed and was able to talk with both of my sisters and meet my niece plus talk to friends and my parents over these past few days in Bamako via skype. Wireless is kind of an anomaly in this country and has been a delightful treat. I’ve even started researching grad schools and possible career prospects seeing as how I’ll be home in less than a year and I’d like to have some idea of where I want to live when I get there. Pretty crazy how quickly the time goes.
Anyways, not too much to report; I hope all is well back home and I miss you all very much.
All my love,
Cait
My mid service exam didn’t go quite as planned starting early on with my blood work. Peace Corps provided transport to the blood work facility in Bamako and while waiting for my turn I could feel myself getting nervous while evaluating the cleanliness of the building and staff. While all appeared to be in good condition (considering I live in one of the poorest countries in the world) I still couldn’t help getting in my mind and getting way too agitated. Thus before the nurse even got near enough to pick up the needle I knew I wouldn’t make it. After telling the staff in Bambara that I was falling down I came too in the arms of two doctors. They were both attractive so it wasn’t the worst way to come out of a fainting spell but still embarrassing because there is no privacy wall and the whole waiting room got to witness the fall. It wasn’t graceful either. I hit my head on the way down and then had to be helped to the bathroom where I promptly threw up…Mali won yet again. Passing out takes a lot out of you and much of the rest of the day was spent resting and finishing up the rest of my physical exam back at the Peace Corps bureau. I faced my fear by going to get my teeth cleaned at the scary dentist and while it was certainly not a pleasant trip at least it’s over now and when I COS in less than a year I get vouchers to go to my dentist back home. I’m happy to report that all the results thus far have come out and I’m in about as good of health as can be expected so hopefully can maintain my standard of health for another year.
I’m headed back to San tomorrow hopefully with Peace Corps transport. My boss is headed up to the region of Mopti for some site prospective and Holly, Justin and I are hopefully getting to ride along for free and AC!!!! God willing!
I’ve been so blessed and was able to talk with both of my sisters and meet my niece plus talk to friends and my parents over these past few days in Bamako via skype. Wireless is kind of an anomaly in this country and has been a delightful treat. I’ve even started researching grad schools and possible career prospects seeing as how I’ll be home in less than a year and I’d like to have some idea of where I want to live when I get there. Pretty crazy how quickly the time goes.
Anyways, not too much to report; I hope all is well back home and I miss you all very much.
All my love,
Cait
September 12, 2010
Again, my apologies for the delay in updates, the internet was out yet again last week when I was in San. I am leaving early tomorrow for a few days in Bamako for my mid-service exam…hard to believe it’s time for this check up and impossible to believe that I have less than a year to go! While in Bamako I should have access to more reliable wireless internet…God willing.
The past few weeks have passed quickly with the goodbyes and welcomes officially over and am adjusting to a very full house in San, now 13 of us. Holly and I have been run ragged taking the new volunteers around San and buying what they need to furnish their houses and basically get a feel for the city so we won’t have to be at the house the next time they’re in town. I now remember just how many questions we had last year and there were only 3 of us asking 7 older volunteers. Now the roles are reversed and 10 new volunteers are relying on Holly and me for guidance.
Site has been pretty quite these past few weeks. The month of fasting just came to an end and while my village is Christian, we still celebrate with a feast called Seli. As you can imagine, people can get pretty crabby when they don’t get to eat or drink anything from dawn to dusk, so I’m totally content to have this month of fasting over. The rains are great this year, coming almost every day but as with everything in life, the downside is that bruce roads are completely impassible thus I can no longer get to Djeli market. It’s not a problem seeing as how my friends in Sebanso are exceedingly generous and give me garden produce regularly. That said, hungry season is coming to a close and I can see a dramatic difference in the quality and quantity of food I am given over these past few days. Still a few weeks to go before harvest, but the end is in sight. Many of my friends have clearly lost a significant amount of weight and with malaria running rampant, I’m anxious for some relief of the rains. Just like home, each season brings with it some ups and downs; I just didn’t realize how extreme these ups and downs would be in Mali.
It’s hard to know exactly what people are sick with during rainy season because any sickness is diagnosed as Malaria. That said, at least 2 people in each family seem to be diagnosed with Malaria each rainy season and this is often when the most deaths in village occur. The elderly and children are most susceptible and while the death of elderly adults is celebrated, the death of a child is rarely mentioned. My homologue, Bah, has lost 3 children and from what I gather this is quite typical. Kardi, Bah’s best friend, just lost his youngest son a few days ago. This was the first child I knew and played with regularly so it was pretty tough to have no ceremony or any real recognition of his death…the mourning process is significantly different here and has been quite an adjustment.
Well, I should be going. Hopefully I’ll have lots of internet access over the next week and I can send out some more updates.
Much love,
Cait
The past few weeks have passed quickly with the goodbyes and welcomes officially over and am adjusting to a very full house in San, now 13 of us. Holly and I have been run ragged taking the new volunteers around San and buying what they need to furnish their houses and basically get a feel for the city so we won’t have to be at the house the next time they’re in town. I now remember just how many questions we had last year and there were only 3 of us asking 7 older volunteers. Now the roles are reversed and 10 new volunteers are relying on Holly and me for guidance.
Site has been pretty quite these past few weeks. The month of fasting just came to an end and while my village is Christian, we still celebrate with a feast called Seli. As you can imagine, people can get pretty crabby when they don’t get to eat or drink anything from dawn to dusk, so I’m totally content to have this month of fasting over. The rains are great this year, coming almost every day but as with everything in life, the downside is that bruce roads are completely impassible thus I can no longer get to Djeli market. It’s not a problem seeing as how my friends in Sebanso are exceedingly generous and give me garden produce regularly. That said, hungry season is coming to a close and I can see a dramatic difference in the quality and quantity of food I am given over these past few days. Still a few weeks to go before harvest, but the end is in sight. Many of my friends have clearly lost a significant amount of weight and with malaria running rampant, I’m anxious for some relief of the rains. Just like home, each season brings with it some ups and downs; I just didn’t realize how extreme these ups and downs would be in Mali.
It’s hard to know exactly what people are sick with during rainy season because any sickness is diagnosed as Malaria. That said, at least 2 people in each family seem to be diagnosed with Malaria each rainy season and this is often when the most deaths in village occur. The elderly and children are most susceptible and while the death of elderly adults is celebrated, the death of a child is rarely mentioned. My homologue, Bah, has lost 3 children and from what I gather this is quite typical. Kardi, Bah’s best friend, just lost his youngest son a few days ago. This was the first child I knew and played with regularly so it was pretty tough to have no ceremony or any real recognition of his death…the mourning process is significantly different here and has been quite an adjustment.
Well, I should be going. Hopefully I’ll have lots of internet access over the next week and I can send out some more updates.
Much love,
Cait
August 19, 2010
It’s been a while since I last wrote and so much has happened! First and for most, rainy season is in full swing and much to everyone’s relief, the rains while starting later this year, have proven to be significantly more frequent than the damaging lack of rain in 2009. My village is busy at work plowing, planting and weeding their fields of peanuts, rice, millet and corn. I even had the opportunity to push the plow behind the cows and while my rows aren’t exactly straight, I did it! My homologue’s garden is lush and green which I cannot begin to express how unbelievably beautiful the color green can be after 9 months of being encompassed in a world of brown. Bah, my homologue, and I are trying to spread the use of urine fertilizer in our village by using his garden as a guinea pig. Some interest has been peaked as people see the size and speed at which his garden veggies are growing (okra, hot peppers, corn, egg plant). Mom sent some veggies and Bah is fascinated with the American corn which is different from Malian corn therefore very excited to try it. We are also growing green beans, squash and zucchini, none of which he had heard of and thus also very curious what the final product will be (he is convinced that zucchini’s are actually cucumbers and will not rest until he proves me wrong…). I walked to the garden a few days ago and thought I saw Sali (Bah’s wife) working, but nearly fell over with laughter when I saw two newly constricted scarecrows standing in her place…too funny. He also took the tape from a cassette and tied it up throughout the garden so the wind blows and makes a loud noise to keep those pesky birds out. I never cease to be amazed by the ingenuity and lack of waste I find in this country.
The rain brings with it difficulties in travel as Bruce roads become nearly impassible during and after a rainstorm. The best, and most recent, example I can give happened just last Thursday on my way back from market in Djeli. I bike to and from Djeli with Bah’s best friend, Kardi because Bah takes his moto while we have to bike, and on Thursday we left too late from market and were forced to bike 10 kilometers in what can most accurately be called a monsoon. 10 k really isn’t too much to complain about but Bruce roads are mud during rainy season, and when it’s not mud, it’s underwater. I won’t get into the details because the memory is much too fresh and painful in my mind but it’s safe to assume the adventure was hilarious, exhausting, frustrating, hilarious, muddy, emotional, and then hilarious again. To peak your interest I can tell you this odyssey includes multiple bikes breaking, me falling off my bike, me falling while pushing my bike, me “swimming” (water was about waist high at one point) along with my bike, a brief donkey ride, meeting new friends and finally, given a chicken. I was soaked head to toe when I got home but didn’t really matter because I was covered too in mud from head to toe…the joys of rainy season continue to show themselves to me each day.
While saying goodbye to my friends in San is proving to be extremely emotional, I’m currently having some leverage in fighting the sadness with excitement because I’ve just met the 9 new volunteers to become SanKaw (people of San). We will lose 6 from the STAGE before mine and gain 9 making an even 12 for my last year of service (Holly, Brad and I are the only 3 from my STAGE in San) or at least until February when yet more volunteers come to Mali. As San house manager I have to lead a house meeting explaining the basics of the house, collect dues, answer questions, etc so this has been a crazy week. To make things even more stressful, I had two site buddies this past week. There is a volunteer being placed about 2 kilometers from me and another in my market town that I had to visit each for a day and take into San on Friday. I’d forgotten how completely helpless and totally clueless we were a year ago…we knew nothing! I’m exhausted and tired of being mother hen but it’s been a nice distraction as my two best friends in the STAGE before mine are COSing in the next few days. Good news is, I think we are getting a great group and I’m excited to see what this next year will bring. It will be completely different from last year now having two volunteers so nearby but I think it could prove to be a great tool in getting work done and collaborating for projects in addition to being a nice reprieve for my sanity.
I guess that’s enough for one email. Sorry again for the lack of correspondence, internet has been down in San for over a week now! I’ll be in and out of San saying my goodbyes to friends and then in san in early September for the new volunteers installation to site and finally and then headed to Bamako the week after to pick up a friend from the airport. It’s going to be a crazy few weeks coming up, and to think, August is already half over!
Miss you and love you
Cait
The rain brings with it difficulties in travel as Bruce roads become nearly impassible during and after a rainstorm. The best, and most recent, example I can give happened just last Thursday on my way back from market in Djeli. I bike to and from Djeli with Bah’s best friend, Kardi because Bah takes his moto while we have to bike, and on Thursday we left too late from market and were forced to bike 10 kilometers in what can most accurately be called a monsoon. 10 k really isn’t too much to complain about but Bruce roads are mud during rainy season, and when it’s not mud, it’s underwater. I won’t get into the details because the memory is much too fresh and painful in my mind but it’s safe to assume the adventure was hilarious, exhausting, frustrating, hilarious, muddy, emotional, and then hilarious again. To peak your interest I can tell you this odyssey includes multiple bikes breaking, me falling off my bike, me falling while pushing my bike, me “swimming” (water was about waist high at one point) along with my bike, a brief donkey ride, meeting new friends and finally, given a chicken. I was soaked head to toe when I got home but didn’t really matter because I was covered too in mud from head to toe…the joys of rainy season continue to show themselves to me each day.
While saying goodbye to my friends in San is proving to be extremely emotional, I’m currently having some leverage in fighting the sadness with excitement because I’ve just met the 9 new volunteers to become SanKaw (people of San). We will lose 6 from the STAGE before mine and gain 9 making an even 12 for my last year of service (Holly, Brad and I are the only 3 from my STAGE in San) or at least until February when yet more volunteers come to Mali. As San house manager I have to lead a house meeting explaining the basics of the house, collect dues, answer questions, etc so this has been a crazy week. To make things even more stressful, I had two site buddies this past week. There is a volunteer being placed about 2 kilometers from me and another in my market town that I had to visit each for a day and take into San on Friday. I’d forgotten how completely helpless and totally clueless we were a year ago…we knew nothing! I’m exhausted and tired of being mother hen but it’s been a nice distraction as my two best friends in the STAGE before mine are COSing in the next few days. Good news is, I think we are getting a great group and I’m excited to see what this next year will bring. It will be completely different from last year now having two volunteers so nearby but I think it could prove to be a great tool in getting work done and collaborating for projects in addition to being a nice reprieve for my sanity.
I guess that’s enough for one email. Sorry again for the lack of correspondence, internet has been down in San for over a week now! I’ll be in and out of San saying my goodbyes to friends and then in san in early September for the new volunteers installation to site and finally and then headed to Bamako the week after to pick up a friend from the airport. It’s going to be a crazy few weeks coming up, and to think, August is already half over!
Miss you and love you
Cait
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