Hey Everyone,
I just got back from a trip to Dogon country to see a traditional mask dance in Justin’s village, Sokolo. Last year a village elder died in his village, but there was no time for the proper mourning ceremony before rainy season began so they postponed it for a year. Justin’s village and the Dogon area in general have a very unique culture and I felt so lucky to be able to see such an intimate ceremony. Because this was somewhat sacred, my photo opportunities were extremely limited but it was something I don’t think I’ll ever forget.
There are between 8-10 different kinds of masks and Justin gave me a brief history of the kinds and their significance. It was so awesome! My favorite mask was one who walks on stilts but Justin’s favorite wears horns on his mask and is really aggressive. Many of the masks are very confrontational and women and children especially are targets to have their souls stolen or at the very least hit with a rock. Most masks represent something like a tree or a hunter and women and children generally work in the forest cutting trees for firewood thus angering the masks. So when the masks would run through village the women often run to the nearest house and hide behind trees or climb to the roof of their houses. It was hilarious to watch, but I had to be escorted by several men to protect me. One mask would only come out at night and she was the mother of all the masks and was invisible to people, but she would make a really creepy sound like she was swinging a rope around really fast. It was disturbing and sleeping on the roof was little comfort.
I also had to watch a sacrifice ceremony which was interesting until they moved the cow to be killed then I had to leave. I saw the knife they were going to use is was rusty and dull at best. Justin watched and even he had to admit it was good I left the area because it got pretty gory.
Then after watching masks terrorize the village, butcher a cow and greet literally hundreds of people, the chief of the village’s wife died…needless to say, I got my full of cultural exposure in my 36 hours in Sokolo.
In addition to an awesome cultural experience my transport luck was fantastic (perhaps making up for my last several very unpleasant transport endeavors) making the trip all the better! And for my few days at site between the training in Segou and the mask festival was Easter in my village! It was a few days of delicious eating! We killed a pig and a goat and it was a delightful feast. The ceremony was long, but I could understand a little more this year than the last so I got a little more out of it. At the same time, it was my second thus my last Easter here which had a sad note to it as well. All it all it’s been a fantastic week and I’m looking forward to getting back to site for a while before heading to Ghana!
Love always,
Cait
April 21, 2011
Hey everyone,
I’m on my return trip to from a regional training in Segou. It was for all the volunteers in the Segou region thus including San. It was different experience this year for me personally being a second year volunteer. The training is designed for the new volunteers to ask questions and learn from experiences by the second year volunteers and their homologues. It was actually kind of fun to share some of my successes and all my failures and it’s by far one of the best ways to help the new volunteers.
I’m headed home to Sebanso on Friday to get ready for Easter this Sunday. We’re killing a pig which I’m excited for seeing as I missed this past Christmas thus haven’t really celebrated a Christian holiday since last Easter with my village. I’ll only be home for just over a week before heading to Teryiabougu with the volunteers in San. We’re just staying for two nights as we’re all living a restricted “income” we can’t stay any longer, but I think it will be a nice reprieve for everyone.
Since I last wrote I’ve had an eventful few weeks. Early April all Peace Corps Mali volunteers were invited to the swearing in ceremony of the newest STAGE of volunteers at the President of Mali’s (Amadou Toumani Toure aka ATT) house. Several friends and I decided to go and I’m so happy we did. The ceremony was held at the conference room of the palace and all of the important dignitaries and Presidential Attendants were there in addition to all the Peace Corps staff and a much of the US embassy staff including the ambassador. The ceremony was lovely, and brace yourself, prompt and concise! Everyone was dressed to the nines and I think we were all a little star struck when ATT gave his speech. We had a quick reception following the ceremony with yummy delicious food and then made our way home. The Palace is located at the top of a hill and it gave a beautiful view of the city but it was deceitful in that we forgot momentarily we were in one of the poorest countries in the world. The Palace and the grounds were truly beautiful and I think I’d feel that way even if I’d seen grass and flowers daily as opposed to 7 months ago.
While in Bamako I got all my paperwork for my visas finished and Rose and Dan (both of whom live in or near the city) are in charge of dropping them off and picking them up. I might have to go make a quick day trip down to Bamako again because the Ghanian embassy has started random interviews with visa requests but hopefully I won’t have to go until the actual departure date.
I suppose that’s about all I have to report on my end. I left for Segou from my site with my homologue thus for the first time I had brought my laptop to site. Last Saturday night I decided my family knew me well enough that I could bring it out without causing too much of an ordeal and we watched Aladdin together. It was in English of course but they LOVED it! It was really fun too and a great cultural exchange. I was able to share a very small part of my childhood by explaining that American children often enjoy watching these cartoon movies. I guess I’ll close for now.
I wanted to wish a very Happy Birthday to my dad and a huge congrats on the passing of yet another April 15th. I love you all so much,
Cait
I’m on my return trip to from a regional training in Segou. It was for all the volunteers in the Segou region thus including San. It was different experience this year for me personally being a second year volunteer. The training is designed for the new volunteers to ask questions and learn from experiences by the second year volunteers and their homologues. It was actually kind of fun to share some of my successes and all my failures and it’s by far one of the best ways to help the new volunteers.
I’m headed home to Sebanso on Friday to get ready for Easter this Sunday. We’re killing a pig which I’m excited for seeing as I missed this past Christmas thus haven’t really celebrated a Christian holiday since last Easter with my village. I’ll only be home for just over a week before heading to Teryiabougu with the volunteers in San. We’re just staying for two nights as we’re all living a restricted “income” we can’t stay any longer, but I think it will be a nice reprieve for everyone.
Since I last wrote I’ve had an eventful few weeks. Early April all Peace Corps Mali volunteers were invited to the swearing in ceremony of the newest STAGE of volunteers at the President of Mali’s (Amadou Toumani Toure aka ATT) house. Several friends and I decided to go and I’m so happy we did. The ceremony was held at the conference room of the palace and all of the important dignitaries and Presidential Attendants were there in addition to all the Peace Corps staff and a much of the US embassy staff including the ambassador. The ceremony was lovely, and brace yourself, prompt and concise! Everyone was dressed to the nines and I think we were all a little star struck when ATT gave his speech. We had a quick reception following the ceremony with yummy delicious food and then made our way home. The Palace is located at the top of a hill and it gave a beautiful view of the city but it was deceitful in that we forgot momentarily we were in one of the poorest countries in the world. The Palace and the grounds were truly beautiful and I think I’d feel that way even if I’d seen grass and flowers daily as opposed to 7 months ago.
While in Bamako I got all my paperwork for my visas finished and Rose and Dan (both of whom live in or near the city) are in charge of dropping them off and picking them up. I might have to go make a quick day trip down to Bamako again because the Ghanian embassy has started random interviews with visa requests but hopefully I won’t have to go until the actual departure date.
I suppose that’s about all I have to report on my end. I left for Segou from my site with my homologue thus for the first time I had brought my laptop to site. Last Saturday night I decided my family knew me well enough that I could bring it out without causing too much of an ordeal and we watched Aladdin together. It was in English of course but they LOVED it! It was really fun too and a great cultural exchange. I was able to share a very small part of my childhood by explaining that American children often enjoy watching these cartoon movies. I guess I’ll close for now.
I wanted to wish a very Happy Birthday to my dad and a huge congrats on the passing of yet another April 15th. I love you all so much,
Cait
April 3, 2011
Hey Everyone,
I’ve just started a two month trek of traveling both within Mali and surrounding countries. I finished my last big project for my animal raising association this past stint at site and am now looking forward to getting in some quality time with my Malian and American friends.
We had training in my village with my Cooperative on animal fattening practices as well as proper medical treatments and food selections and breeding. About 20 men were present and one woman (which I was so happy to see!). The trainer was the head veterinarian for the Circle of San and he came out to Sebanso for two days for the training. It had its hiccups that frustrated myself but apparently didn’t faze anyone else like starting 2 hours late because the building we were to use hadn’t been cleaned out…mud buildings tend to get extra dusty so you can imagine what a mess it was! All in all though, I was pleased with everything and thought the members got a lot out of it.
As I said, this begins two months of travel. I came in on Friday and watched the final four on Saturday night via internet at the San house (it’s been a delightful addition to the house!) and watched the painfully close loss of UK to UCONN but am excited we made it as far as we did. A week from today I’m heading down to Bamako to attend the Swearing in of the newest stage. This will be my last chance to see another swear in before I close my service (COS) in early September. As this is the 40th consecutive year of Peace Corps in Mali (quite the feat for a West African country) the swearing in ceremony will take place at the President of Mali’s (Amadou Toumani Toure) house (the Malian “White House”) in lieu of the US Embassy where it normally takes place.
While down for the ceremony, I’ll be visiting the Ghanaian embassy and the Burkina Faso embassy and getting my visas for the trip I’m taking to Ghana in May. I’m going with three of my best friends and the four of us are going overland from Mali through Burkina Faso to Ghana. It’s going to be a long hot ride, but I want the bragging rights to say that I did it. We’ll be spending about 2 weeks traveling in Ghana and maybe stopping for a day or two in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, on the way back. In early May prior to the Ghana trip the volunteers in San are going to Teryiabougu. We went last year and have started an annual trip to the “paradise in the dessert” as we have affectionately named it…aka two days in a clean pool with a river view, trees, flowers, and yummy food. Then follows my birthday and the Kentucky Derby…like I said, this is the beginning of a very busy two months.
We’ve finished the chicken coop at site and spend most days trying to get through hot season. It’s been hovering around 110 degrees Fahrenheit and the nights have still been cooling down to low 80’s. With a lot of luck, maybe the next two months of hot season will maintain this weather pattern because compared to last year, this is incredibly pleasant. Time continues to pass at an alarming rate and I expect it will not slow down the closer I get to September so I’m just trying to enjoy each day as best as I can. There’s so much to look forward to in the next few months in Mali and while I’m anxious to return home, I feel like I need these next few months to see all of the country I want to see and have say my goodbyes.
I hope all is well with everyone. I miss home so much and find so much comfort from your thoughts and letters and packages. Thanks so much for everything,
Love,
Cait
I’ve just started a two month trek of traveling both within Mali and surrounding countries. I finished my last big project for my animal raising association this past stint at site and am now looking forward to getting in some quality time with my Malian and American friends.
We had training in my village with my Cooperative on animal fattening practices as well as proper medical treatments and food selections and breeding. About 20 men were present and one woman (which I was so happy to see!). The trainer was the head veterinarian for the Circle of San and he came out to Sebanso for two days for the training. It had its hiccups that frustrated myself but apparently didn’t faze anyone else like starting 2 hours late because the building we were to use hadn’t been cleaned out…mud buildings tend to get extra dusty so you can imagine what a mess it was! All in all though, I was pleased with everything and thought the members got a lot out of it.
As I said, this begins two months of travel. I came in on Friday and watched the final four on Saturday night via internet at the San house (it’s been a delightful addition to the house!) and watched the painfully close loss of UK to UCONN but am excited we made it as far as we did. A week from today I’m heading down to Bamako to attend the Swearing in of the newest stage. This will be my last chance to see another swear in before I close my service (COS) in early September. As this is the 40th consecutive year of Peace Corps in Mali (quite the feat for a West African country) the swearing in ceremony will take place at the President of Mali’s (Amadou Toumani Toure) house (the Malian “White House”) in lieu of the US Embassy where it normally takes place.
While down for the ceremony, I’ll be visiting the Ghanaian embassy and the Burkina Faso embassy and getting my visas for the trip I’m taking to Ghana in May. I’m going with three of my best friends and the four of us are going overland from Mali through Burkina Faso to Ghana. It’s going to be a long hot ride, but I want the bragging rights to say that I did it. We’ll be spending about 2 weeks traveling in Ghana and maybe stopping for a day or two in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, on the way back. In early May prior to the Ghana trip the volunteers in San are going to Teryiabougu. We went last year and have started an annual trip to the “paradise in the dessert” as we have affectionately named it…aka two days in a clean pool with a river view, trees, flowers, and yummy food. Then follows my birthday and the Kentucky Derby…like I said, this is the beginning of a very busy two months.
We’ve finished the chicken coop at site and spend most days trying to get through hot season. It’s been hovering around 110 degrees Fahrenheit and the nights have still been cooling down to low 80’s. With a lot of luck, maybe the next two months of hot season will maintain this weather pattern because compared to last year, this is incredibly pleasant. Time continues to pass at an alarming rate and I expect it will not slow down the closer I get to September so I’m just trying to enjoy each day as best as I can. There’s so much to look forward to in the next few months in Mali and while I’m anxious to return home, I feel like I need these next few months to see all of the country I want to see and have say my goodbyes.
I hope all is well with everyone. I miss home so much and find so much comfort from your thoughts and letters and packages. Thanks so much for everything,
Love,
Cait
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