Hey Everyone,
It’s been an eventful few weeks with lots of traveling! Once the 66 new volunteers arrived in Bamako on February 2, Justin and I left Bamako and headed out to Segou for the Festival on the Niger River. Segou is the 2nd largest city next to Bamako but much more manageable and overall more pleasant in my opinion (Less traffic, less air pollution, more organized, less stressful). Despite living in the region of Segou I’ve never really spent any time in the city itself, thus I was anxious to spend a few days seeing the sights. The music festival attracts many tourists and I’ve never been more appreciative of being able to speak Bambara. Everywhere we went people tried to rip us off until I spoke Bamabara with them and then they became much more willing to negotiate and offer fair prices. USAID was a primary sponsor of the festival and you could see the western influence in the layout and functionality of the event. There were vendors, museums, cultural events etc available to everyone in the city during the day but at night you had to have a wristband on to get into the main events. The stage was actually set up in the Niger River so people could sit along the bank and then in a makeshift stadium. Thousands of people turned up for the evening performances with the best of the best West African musicians performing. It was unbelievable to feel that kind of energy coursing through the crowds.
It was fun to be able to do some touristy things too. I went shopping at the vendor’s area and we went to a display at the museum featuring West African artists. Perhaps my favorite activity was going to the Bogolon Museum. Bogolon is the art form of mud dyed fabric which is practiced here in Mali. The origins of the fabric come from the hunters in Mali who needed the dyed woven fabric in the woods in order to blend in. The fabric originally is a creamy white thus had to be dyed to yellows/browns/reds to camouflage the hunters. The tour we went on was free but in Bambara so I had to translate for Justin what was said. We both made a small square of fabric with the help of our Bogolon guide, Bey. He showed us the most common symbols and explained their meanings and then left us to make our own personalized patch. It was really fun. While our works of art were drying, Bey took us on a start to finish tour on how to make and dye the fabric. I have a whole new appreciation for this kind of art.
One of the more amusing events was the boat racing day. Several canoe looking boats filled with paddlers raced around two buoys out a little ways in the river. While we were betting about who would win, the children who gathered to watch the race were guessing who would finish. We thought this was curious until the race began and in attempt to save some time, corners were cut too sharp and sent dozens of young men bobbing along in the Niger. Of the original 8 boats in one of the races only about 3 made it… “Rescue boats” were situated along the track to get the stranded paddlers.
We opted to return to San on Sunday to watch the Super Bowl game in the comfort of home via my computer. The game was delightfully clear but with the time change, I barely made it up to half time. Justin, a Packers fan, however stayed up for the whole game and caught me up on the details so I feel like I got to see it all.
On Tuesday morning we biked the 30 kilometers out to my village where we spent the day and night and next day. It was so nice to have a guest at my home. It’s always a little strange to me that I’ve lived in my home and with these people, but no one has really been to it and can see my life there. My Malian family was so excited for him to visit. They killed a chicken for us and made us beans (if you’ll remember, I’m a Coulibaly and we’re known for our bean eating tendencies) and spaghetti…all of which are very nice gifts for guests of the village. Justin in turn brought my family some cookies and dates and brought the chief of the village kola nuts. Kola nuts in my opinion are disgusting but men eat them for the pleasurable side effects… My chief mends broken bones and when we went to visit he was working on a boy’s knee that was massively swollen and distorted. Like I said, I’m so happy someone got to see my home and meet my family in Sebanso. It was quick trip but one of my favorites.
Currently, I’m in Bamako getting ready to take my GRE on Saturday morning. It was a taxing trip down. I really had my stress load put into perspective. My bus had nearly reached Bamako when we passed a very recent wreck. Volunteers tend to joke that transport is a death ride here because the poor quality of the cars, the roads (or lack thereof), no traffic lanes or really even laws (speed limits, etc), little training of the drivers…etc but to see the damage in person was like a nightmare. I’m glad I’m safe in the Peace Corps house, but I’ll be thinking about those families who lost loved ones today for a while and fear that I will be haunted by the images I saw.
On a happier note, I have a meeting set with my boss tomorrow to have a training done in my village for my animal raising cooperation. I’ve said it before it it’s still just as true, my village is very motivated. I told the men I’d help them if they told me what they wanted the training on and when. Seems pretty straightforward, but in most villages this could take months of bickering then finally nixing the whole thing out of frustration. My cooperation on the other hand, had their monthly meeting, voted, and wrote an official request for the type of training they wanted in the course of the week (pretty impressive since only a few of them can write). I love my village. I love that they want to learn. I love their desire to make their lives better themselves.
Depending on my state of mood post GRE I’ll write a quick synopsis, but if I don’t get the chance, I’m looking to get back to San on Sunday and then leave for site on Monday to spend a few weeks. We are starting to raise chickens and I’m going to help build the coop!
Much love,
Cait
January 27, 2011
Hey everyone,
I’ve adjusted quickly to being back in Mali which is a relief though I’m sad to say that hot season has already started to rear its ugly head. It’s 104 degrees today and hot season doesn’t even start until March…
My first week back at site brought with it wonderful news that my bag was finally located and sent to Bamako and my boss hand delivered it to me at my site when he came to visit. The site visit went so well. My homologue, Bah, was so excited about the work we’ve done and truly feels that we are making some progress, albeit slowly. It felt really good to be appreciated for not giving out money but sharing information and teaching. One of my biggest pet peeves as a development worker is that donor companies and unfortunately many volunteers use money as their primary means as development. I have managed to start my animal raising cooperation not using outside funds and it’s so rewarding. It means that the men really wanted to start the business and will work hard to keep it going once I leave. That is the dream of volunteers that their projects will last once they return home.
Peace Corps volunteers have the unique opportunity to really know their villages and their needs and I see now just how valuable that can be. An NGO from a Western country came to Segou to help a women’s group who was sewing everything (clothes, blankets, purses, etc) by hand in a mud hut to sell at market. This NGO with great intentions came and completely furnished a room with electricity and most modern connivances so the women now use electric machines. Sounds great right? Well, now they have to work longer hours to try to sell their products which are no longer affordable to their previous market because they have to pay all these electric and water bills. They are in worse financial shape than ever and will likely not be able to continue their business. All this resulted from an NGO wanting to do good, but not understanding just how basic the needs are. We can’t skip steps as tempting as it is.
The weeks passed quickly, as I’m preparing for the GRE on February 12 which is rapidly approaching. It’s nice because everyone at site understands that I have a test to take in order to continue school so they’ve been wishing me well for the past few days as I prepared to go. Today was a girl’s only day full of manicure’s, pedicure’s, chick flicks and desserts. It’s been such a fun day and great way to celebrate two girlfriends’ birthdays (both 27). Tomorrow several friends from all over (about 20 of us) are coming to San. It will be the first time I’ve seen all of my san friends since before I left for Christmas so I’m looking forward to catching up with everyone. Afterwards, I’m headed down to Bamako to pick up the 60 new volunteers from the airport, they get in on the night of the second. Then Justin and I are staying in Segou for four days to attend the Segou Music Festival. It hosts the best of the Malian musicians which are known for some of the earliest music known to man. They are certainly well respected through all of Africa.
Everyday seems to be passing with increasing awareness that I have suddenly one less. It’s pretty scary that I’m so aware now of everything going on around me. Seeing beauty again in things that used to irritate me… Hopefully I can maintain my optimism through hot season!! I’ll write again before I head out to site.
Much love,
Cait
I’ve adjusted quickly to being back in Mali which is a relief though I’m sad to say that hot season has already started to rear its ugly head. It’s 104 degrees today and hot season doesn’t even start until March…
My first week back at site brought with it wonderful news that my bag was finally located and sent to Bamako and my boss hand delivered it to me at my site when he came to visit. The site visit went so well. My homologue, Bah, was so excited about the work we’ve done and truly feels that we are making some progress, albeit slowly. It felt really good to be appreciated for not giving out money but sharing information and teaching. One of my biggest pet peeves as a development worker is that donor companies and unfortunately many volunteers use money as their primary means as development. I have managed to start my animal raising cooperation not using outside funds and it’s so rewarding. It means that the men really wanted to start the business and will work hard to keep it going once I leave. That is the dream of volunteers that their projects will last once they return home.
Peace Corps volunteers have the unique opportunity to really know their villages and their needs and I see now just how valuable that can be. An NGO from a Western country came to Segou to help a women’s group who was sewing everything (clothes, blankets, purses, etc) by hand in a mud hut to sell at market. This NGO with great intentions came and completely furnished a room with electricity and most modern connivances so the women now use electric machines. Sounds great right? Well, now they have to work longer hours to try to sell their products which are no longer affordable to their previous market because they have to pay all these electric and water bills. They are in worse financial shape than ever and will likely not be able to continue their business. All this resulted from an NGO wanting to do good, but not understanding just how basic the needs are. We can’t skip steps as tempting as it is.
The weeks passed quickly, as I’m preparing for the GRE on February 12 which is rapidly approaching. It’s nice because everyone at site understands that I have a test to take in order to continue school so they’ve been wishing me well for the past few days as I prepared to go. Today was a girl’s only day full of manicure’s, pedicure’s, chick flicks and desserts. It’s been such a fun day and great way to celebrate two girlfriends’ birthdays (both 27). Tomorrow several friends from all over (about 20 of us) are coming to San. It will be the first time I’ve seen all of my san friends since before I left for Christmas so I’m looking forward to catching up with everyone. Afterwards, I’m headed down to Bamako to pick up the 60 new volunteers from the airport, they get in on the night of the second. Then Justin and I are staying in Segou for four days to attend the Segou Music Festival. It hosts the best of the Malian musicians which are known for some of the earliest music known to man. They are certainly well respected through all of Africa.
Everyday seems to be passing with increasing awareness that I have suddenly one less. It’s pretty scary that I’m so aware now of everything going on around me. Seeing beauty again in things that used to irritate me… Hopefully I can maintain my optimism through hot season!! I’ll write again before I head out to site.
Much love,
Cait
January 3, 2011
Hey,
I hope everyone had a merry Christmas and happy New Year!!! Spending the holidays in Kentucky was a wonderful reprieve from my life in Mali. I had however, become more adjusted to my Malian life than I realized and my time in America was a temporary assault to my senses. Despite this sensory overload, I can’t begin to explain how wonderful it was to be surrounded by family, especially during the holidays.
My Papa’s 90th Birthday was a huge success in my opinion and, while leading up to the big day he was somewhat stressed, he was quite the social butterfly on the night of the event! It had been a couple of years since I’d seen some extended family and it was so nice to get almost everyone together even just for the one evening.
Peace Corps Headquarters warned all volunteers that upon return to America, whether vacation or permanent return, that reverse culture shock can be somewhat crippling. I was just beginning to see that warning come to fruition but what took me by surprise most, was the fact that life went on without me. Sometimes, spending days and weeks on end living in an African village, I forget that things kept happening at home. It was surreal being home. Part of me never realized I left and the other half is so completely changed that I see everything, even the familiar, differently.
I went on a bit of a shopping spree and gave my parent’s credit card a workout while home, but in my defense, I hadn’t been shopping in a long time and much of it was for my family in Mali. I’m so excited to be able to catch up with my village friends, but this trip home has just reminded me how quickly these next few months will pass. My service is 2/3 over and the realization that in 9 months or so I will return indefinitely to America hasn’t sunk in yet.
That said; I was greeted at the airport with only one of my checked bags…Welcome back to Mali. It’s now been a week and no news yet ….
I spent the New Year in Bamako with some friends and am still here waiting hopefully for some news of my lost baggage. The amenities available in Bamako have made the transition a little easier, but it comes at a price and I’m anxious to get home to San and then site this week.
Every holiday now has become my last in Mali with friends who have become family thus they are bitter sweet celebrations. Last Halloween. Last Thanksgiving. Last Christmas. Last New Year’s… It’s my 3rd New Years out of the country and I haven’t spent a full year in the same country since 2007. 2011 will continue in much the same trend but perhaps there’s some hope for 2012???
I trust you all had fun plans to ring in the New Year and wish you all the best in sticking to your resolutions for 2011.
Much Love,
Cait
I hope everyone had a merry Christmas and happy New Year!!! Spending the holidays in Kentucky was a wonderful reprieve from my life in Mali. I had however, become more adjusted to my Malian life than I realized and my time in America was a temporary assault to my senses. Despite this sensory overload, I can’t begin to explain how wonderful it was to be surrounded by family, especially during the holidays.
My Papa’s 90th Birthday was a huge success in my opinion and, while leading up to the big day he was somewhat stressed, he was quite the social butterfly on the night of the event! It had been a couple of years since I’d seen some extended family and it was so nice to get almost everyone together even just for the one evening.
Peace Corps Headquarters warned all volunteers that upon return to America, whether vacation or permanent return, that reverse culture shock can be somewhat crippling. I was just beginning to see that warning come to fruition but what took me by surprise most, was the fact that life went on without me. Sometimes, spending days and weeks on end living in an African village, I forget that things kept happening at home. It was surreal being home. Part of me never realized I left and the other half is so completely changed that I see everything, even the familiar, differently.
I went on a bit of a shopping spree and gave my parent’s credit card a workout while home, but in my defense, I hadn’t been shopping in a long time and much of it was for my family in Mali. I’m so excited to be able to catch up with my village friends, but this trip home has just reminded me how quickly these next few months will pass. My service is 2/3 over and the realization that in 9 months or so I will return indefinitely to America hasn’t sunk in yet.
That said; I was greeted at the airport with only one of my checked bags…Welcome back to Mali. It’s now been a week and no news yet ….
I spent the New Year in Bamako with some friends and am still here waiting hopefully for some news of my lost baggage. The amenities available in Bamako have made the transition a little easier, but it comes at a price and I’m anxious to get home to San and then site this week.
Every holiday now has become my last in Mali with friends who have become family thus they are bitter sweet celebrations. Last Halloween. Last Thanksgiving. Last Christmas. Last New Year’s… It’s my 3rd New Years out of the country and I haven’t spent a full year in the same country since 2007. 2011 will continue in much the same trend but perhaps there’s some hope for 2012???
I trust you all had fun plans to ring in the New Year and wish you all the best in sticking to your resolutions for 2011.
Much Love,
Cait
December 5, 2010
Hello everyone,
It is far too cold. Culture shock in addition to the frigid temperatures is making a fairly amusing somewhat painful transition back home for a few weeks. It was a bit of sensory overload sitting at the Paris airport waiting to come home. Good Food, electronic everything, so many people, Christmas Decor, intercom systems, Prada (I remind you I live on about $3 a day…on average)…
Did I mention it’s cold? I had a long sleeve t-shirt and one last pair of pants that still has the butt in a semi presentable condition (though wearing very thin) and tennis shoes to greet this winter weather...thank God for winter clothes and parents who remembered to bring them to the airport!
Thanksgiving in San was fantastic and delicious though I’m not too disappointed that it was my last one in Mali. Justin and I left the following day and made it all the way north to Bandiagara where we stayed the night in preparation to go to another SED volunteer’s (Andy) sight on Saturday morning called Djigibombo. Justin and I biked the 25 kilometers uphill to Djigibombo and after some recovery time, went out for an afternoon hike. The real hike was Sunday morning when Andy’s homologue took Justin and I on a 12ish kilometer hike up and down and all around the Dogon cliffs. It was a beautiful day and an absolutely perfect way to celebrate Thanksgiving and my rapidly approaching trip home. Rumor has it, the pygmies of central Africa are descendants from the Telmen people who long ago resided in the cliffs in Dogon country and we investigated the old houses (well, the remains of) of these tiny people during the hike. It was pretty entertaining seeing Justin standing next to one of the houses…he’s a tall guy, but these houses came up just past his hip.
We left Djigibombo early Monday morning and made great time getting home…until I blew my tire… Oh well, we met some nice people at a surrounding village who fixed it up for us and allowed us to continue on our way without too much of a delay. I spent one night in Sevare and then left for San where I did my last minute packing then caught the 5am bus down to Bamako on Wednesday. It’s been a whirlwind ever since Thanksgiving and even before that because my last stint at site was busy as well. I finished up my Christmas shopping in Bamako and had a fairly painless trip home. When my biggest complaint is the cold weather, I think I’m one lucky lady.
I have so much I want and hope to do in Kentucky I don’t anticipate it to be a leisurely Christmas vacation and I’m so excited for it. I only have 3 weeks so I’m going to make the most of it!
Much love,
Cait
It is far too cold. Culture shock in addition to the frigid temperatures is making a fairly amusing somewhat painful transition back home for a few weeks. It was a bit of sensory overload sitting at the Paris airport waiting to come home. Good Food, electronic everything, so many people, Christmas Decor, intercom systems, Prada (I remind you I live on about $3 a day…on average)…
Did I mention it’s cold? I had a long sleeve t-shirt and one last pair of pants that still has the butt in a semi presentable condition (though wearing very thin) and tennis shoes to greet this winter weather...thank God for winter clothes and parents who remembered to bring them to the airport!
Thanksgiving in San was fantastic and delicious though I’m not too disappointed that it was my last one in Mali. Justin and I left the following day and made it all the way north to Bandiagara where we stayed the night in preparation to go to another SED volunteer’s (Andy) sight on Saturday morning called Djigibombo. Justin and I biked the 25 kilometers uphill to Djigibombo and after some recovery time, went out for an afternoon hike. The real hike was Sunday morning when Andy’s homologue took Justin and I on a 12ish kilometer hike up and down and all around the Dogon cliffs. It was a beautiful day and an absolutely perfect way to celebrate Thanksgiving and my rapidly approaching trip home. Rumor has it, the pygmies of central Africa are descendants from the Telmen people who long ago resided in the cliffs in Dogon country and we investigated the old houses (well, the remains of) of these tiny people during the hike. It was pretty entertaining seeing Justin standing next to one of the houses…he’s a tall guy, but these houses came up just past his hip.
We left Djigibombo early Monday morning and made great time getting home…until I blew my tire… Oh well, we met some nice people at a surrounding village who fixed it up for us and allowed us to continue on our way without too much of a delay. I spent one night in Sevare and then left for San where I did my last minute packing then caught the 5am bus down to Bamako on Wednesday. It’s been a whirlwind ever since Thanksgiving and even before that because my last stint at site was busy as well. I finished up my Christmas shopping in Bamako and had a fairly painless trip home. When my biggest complaint is the cold weather, I think I’m one lucky lady.
I have so much I want and hope to do in Kentucky I don’t anticipate it to be a leisurely Christmas vacation and I’m so excited for it. I only have 3 weeks so I’m going to make the most of it!
Much love,
Cait
Thanksgiving
Hey Everyone,
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
It’s my last Thanksgiving away from home and I’m mixed between joy and sadness. I left this morning from site and will not return until after the New Year. It was an emotional goodbye this morning and it gave me a preview of what it will be like when I actually leave next fall. My family here is so excited that I’m going home to be with my family for Christmas. They know everyone by name and told me to greet Cathy, Chuck, Molly, Becky and their husbands (and Allison of course). It means so much to me that they know my family and want to know my family.
My last few weeks have been busy and flown by. I went up to Bandiagara for a friend’s birthday and on the way home on what should have been a 3 hour bus ride became a 7 hour ride bus ride. The delay consisted of loading about 150 sheep on the top of the bus, under the bus…and in the bus.
I eventually made it back to site for the last time and fittingly my tire blew out just 2 kilometers from site (which I took as a good sign because I was close enough to walk and the sun wasn’t too high yet). I brought back with me the finalized papers for my animal raising association and we had a presentation with the chief of the village giving the papers to the president of the Cooperation.
I also decided to paint a world map at my school. It’s a first cycle school which is the equivalent of an elementary school and I painted on the “principles” office. It turned out really well and I finished on Monday with just enough time to pack and do some chores at home before coming into San for Thanksgiving. It was more of an undertaking than I first anticipated not necessarily regarding the drawing and the painting, but the kids. They were ceaseless in their questions and even if they weren’t talking to me they were whispering or just sitting and staring.
Last Wednesday was the biggest Muslim holiday of the year, Tabaski. I live in a Christian village and thus we didn’t celebrate like the rest of the country but Bah’s best friend is Muslim so we went to his house for a mini feast! It was delicious but of course of all the yummy sheep meat, they gave me the organs. I suffered through a few bites because it is such an honor is given the “best meat” but man it tastes so bad. Makes me think I could get through some of those road blocks on the Amazing Race if I had too. I’ve eaten more disgusting things then I can count in the past year and a half.
With that said, I’m more than looking forward to our feast today of our closest approximation of a good old fashioned American Thanksgiving meal.
I’m going on a hike in Dogon country then heading down to Bamako on the first and will then fly home on the night of the 3rd! I’m so excited to see everyone and hope everyone has a fabulous Thanksgiving.
Much love,
Cait
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
It’s my last Thanksgiving away from home and I’m mixed between joy and sadness. I left this morning from site and will not return until after the New Year. It was an emotional goodbye this morning and it gave me a preview of what it will be like when I actually leave next fall. My family here is so excited that I’m going home to be with my family for Christmas. They know everyone by name and told me to greet Cathy, Chuck, Molly, Becky and their husbands (and Allison of course). It means so much to me that they know my family and want to know my family.
My last few weeks have been busy and flown by. I went up to Bandiagara for a friend’s birthday and on the way home on what should have been a 3 hour bus ride became a 7 hour ride bus ride. The delay consisted of loading about 150 sheep on the top of the bus, under the bus…and in the bus.
I eventually made it back to site for the last time and fittingly my tire blew out just 2 kilometers from site (which I took as a good sign because I was close enough to walk and the sun wasn’t too high yet). I brought back with me the finalized papers for my animal raising association and we had a presentation with the chief of the village giving the papers to the president of the Cooperation.
I also decided to paint a world map at my school. It’s a first cycle school which is the equivalent of an elementary school and I painted on the “principles” office. It turned out really well and I finished on Monday with just enough time to pack and do some chores at home before coming into San for Thanksgiving. It was more of an undertaking than I first anticipated not necessarily regarding the drawing and the painting, but the kids. They were ceaseless in their questions and even if they weren’t talking to me they were whispering or just sitting and staring.
Last Wednesday was the biggest Muslim holiday of the year, Tabaski. I live in a Christian village and thus we didn’t celebrate like the rest of the country but Bah’s best friend is Muslim so we went to his house for a mini feast! It was delicious but of course of all the yummy sheep meat, they gave me the organs. I suffered through a few bites because it is such an honor is given the “best meat” but man it tastes so bad. Makes me think I could get through some of those road blocks on the Amazing Race if I had too. I’ve eaten more disgusting things then I can count in the past year and a half.
With that said, I’m more than looking forward to our feast today of our closest approximation of a good old fashioned American Thanksgiving meal.
I’m going on a hike in Dogon country then heading down to Bamako on the first and will then fly home on the night of the 3rd! I’m so excited to see everyone and hope everyone has a fabulous Thanksgiving.
Much love,
Cait
Novemeber 2, 2010
Hey everyone,
Hope you all had a fantastic Halloween and November isn’t bringing in too much cold weather. Site has been busy harvesting the rice, peanuts and millet thus my past few weeks have been occupied picking peanuts and carrying baskets of millet on my head…I was not graceful.
The men’s animal raising association I’ve been working with to obtain their legal status as a cooperative finally finished and I’m so happy to say that, the document called a recipcee, has been taken and stamped by our local department of justice thus ending 10 months of savings, red tape, delays and bribes. The men now have access to government loans which is practically impossible for people living in the brush to acquire and thus creating opportunities for profits to be made which they wouldn’t have otherwise.
While rainy season has essentially come to an end it has rained twice in the past two weeks giving a brief reprieve of mini hot season. The nights, unlike during hot season, cool down and with the rains all but over, I’ve been enjoying being well rested sleeping outside. My homologue even built me a small gate to put up to keep the donkeys and sheep out of my yard and eating my papaya trees at night.
A few nights ago I had a fantastic conversation with my homologue on womens and men’s role in the US versus Mali which is so vastly different. They are always so concerned that I am not yet married and do not plan to be in my near future. They always ask if how I will live back home where I have no man to give me money…they were blown away that I have to work and earn my own money in addition to housework. I’m pretty confident that they are now convinced I’m crazy or lying through my teeth but it was a pretty interesting cultural exchange.
Listening to BBC World Service is my lifeline to current events. A few nights ago, Obama was aired when he addressed the two suspected bombs found originating in Yemen. I decided to try to test the waters on the topic of terrorism with my homologue and his friends and was surprised to find a fairly sound understanding of Al-Qaida and was fascinated to hear their opinions regarding their activities. Muslim extremists are active in the north of Mali just as they are in most of North Africa. The men in my village do not live in fear of terrorism but they do understand the rest of the world will be less inclined to help their country if it is associated in any with Al-Qaida and have thus formed some distinct opinions.
I’m heading up north to Bandiagara to help paint a world map at a school and to celebrate a friend’s birthday for a few days and when I return home, it will be for about two weeks. When I leave for San on the 24th for Thanksgiving, I won’t be back until the New Year. I’m leaving for home on December 3 and my return flight to Mali is on the 27th. I’m so looking forward to being home to celebrate the holidays with my family. I can’t believe my service is 2/3 over…where did the time go? Sorry it has been so long since my last update but fear not, I’m in great health and great spirits. Can’t wait to see Kentucky again!
Much love,
Cait
Hope you all had a fantastic Halloween and November isn’t bringing in too much cold weather. Site has been busy harvesting the rice, peanuts and millet thus my past few weeks have been occupied picking peanuts and carrying baskets of millet on my head…I was not graceful.
The men’s animal raising association I’ve been working with to obtain their legal status as a cooperative finally finished and I’m so happy to say that, the document called a recipcee, has been taken and stamped by our local department of justice thus ending 10 months of savings, red tape, delays and bribes. The men now have access to government loans which is practically impossible for people living in the brush to acquire and thus creating opportunities for profits to be made which they wouldn’t have otherwise.
While rainy season has essentially come to an end it has rained twice in the past two weeks giving a brief reprieve of mini hot season. The nights, unlike during hot season, cool down and with the rains all but over, I’ve been enjoying being well rested sleeping outside. My homologue even built me a small gate to put up to keep the donkeys and sheep out of my yard and eating my papaya trees at night.
A few nights ago I had a fantastic conversation with my homologue on womens and men’s role in the US versus Mali which is so vastly different. They are always so concerned that I am not yet married and do not plan to be in my near future. They always ask if how I will live back home where I have no man to give me money…they were blown away that I have to work and earn my own money in addition to housework. I’m pretty confident that they are now convinced I’m crazy or lying through my teeth but it was a pretty interesting cultural exchange.
Listening to BBC World Service is my lifeline to current events. A few nights ago, Obama was aired when he addressed the two suspected bombs found originating in Yemen. I decided to try to test the waters on the topic of terrorism with my homologue and his friends and was surprised to find a fairly sound understanding of Al-Qaida and was fascinated to hear their opinions regarding their activities. Muslim extremists are active in the north of Mali just as they are in most of North Africa. The men in my village do not live in fear of terrorism but they do understand the rest of the world will be less inclined to help their country if it is associated in any with Al-Qaida and have thus formed some distinct opinions.
I’m heading up north to Bandiagara to help paint a world map at a school and to celebrate a friend’s birthday for a few days and when I return home, it will be for about two weeks. When I leave for San on the 24th for Thanksgiving, I won’t be back until the New Year. I’m leaving for home on December 3 and my return flight to Mali is on the 27th. I’m so looking forward to being home to celebrate the holidays with my family. I can’t believe my service is 2/3 over…where did the time go? Sorry it has been so long since my last update but fear not, I’m in great health and great spirits. Can’t wait to see Kentucky again!
Much love,
Cait
September 29, 2010
Hello everyone
I’ve had a great past week at site. The rains are only coming once or twice a week so I can start sleeping outside again thus I’m much better rested because I’m not drenched in sweat by the time I wake up in my hut. I didn’t realize it, but for much of the past year I’ve slept outside and it’s so nice to be back in the beautiful outdoors. Also, sleeping inside my hut comes with its own hazards. The intense rains we’ve had severely weaken the roofs of our mud huts (seeing as they’re made of mud) and many people are killed each year by collapsing roofs. And to think, I was just scared of the scorpions and creepy crawlies.
I also haven’t been able to get to my market town because the road was under water until this past
Thursday. The mosquitoes are still a menace but they’ll only be around for a few weeks which seem totally manageable after getting two rainy seasons under my belt.
I had a pretty entertaining conversation with my homologue the other day. There is a pretty common belief among Malians living on bruce that all white people know each other. I can honestly see how this misconception was created as the only white people many Malians on bruce know are Peace Corps volunteers who seem to all know each other. Thus, the other day I was asked about this white person who they couldn’t remember the name of. They described a tall guy who lived nearby. I guessed all the volunteers who just left and they finally remembered the name and said he was a volunteer who served in 1996-98…and they couldn’t understand how and why I did not know him.
If anyone would like an enjoyable read I’ll recommend a book I’ve just finished. It’s called Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. It’s a man’s journey from Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa and all the countries in between down eastern Africa. He is a sarcastic and insightful writer who both answers questions, raises them, is painfully honest and at times just a stubborn old man. Through his travels he evaluates social, political and economic problems facing the continent while providing incredibly vivid written pictures. While Mali is on the other side of the continent, I laughed out loud at some of the descriptions that are spot on accurate of life here. The death trap of African transport, the stability on bruce vs the chaos of city, the bribes demanded by the police, endless corruption, lack of food security, misguided donor money, etc are all detailed in the book. The author was a Peace Corps volunteer long ago and it was interesting to see some of the similar views we shared with regard to development work among other things.
September 22 was the 50th anniversary of Malian Independence and we had a huge party in my commune capital, Bolokalasso. It was no comparison to Bamako where there were military and police and many others paraded through the streets of Bamako and there were parachutes and heads of state from all over Africa who were in attendance. I was more than happy to celebrate in my village with my village hunters dressing up in traditional dress and shooting off their guns after each speech by the local figureheads like the mayor and police and doctor. There was singing and dancing and a big feast of rice, but the highlight of the party was the kids potato sack races and their version of a piñata. A bunch of little cakes were tied to a tree and the kids were blindfolded and spun around and left to wonder aimlessly with their arms stretched out grabbing the air for the treats. It was hilarious!
I wasn’t planning on coming into San today, but I unexpectedly got to set up a meeting with a man to finish legalizing our paperwork for the animal raising cooperation I’m starting in my village. Things are standstill for weeks and then I have to drop everything and get to work but such is life in Mali and I’m grateful to continue the process. Once we get the actual papers I’m scheduling a small conference in my village led by a Peace Corps orator on proper management of the cooperation as well the potential for profit they now have being legally recognized by the government. Of course this means they need to start some sort of bookkeeping as currently my homologue is the only one with any sort of idea how much money he is putting into the sheep before he sells them to know his profit margin.
I’ll probably be at site for a while unless I have another unexpected meeting arise which is always a possibility, but in all likelihood, I’ll write again the next time I have internet which will probably be around October 15th when I head up to Sevare for two or three days.
All my love,
Cait
I’ve had a great past week at site. The rains are only coming once or twice a week so I can start sleeping outside again thus I’m much better rested because I’m not drenched in sweat by the time I wake up in my hut. I didn’t realize it, but for much of the past year I’ve slept outside and it’s so nice to be back in the beautiful outdoors. Also, sleeping inside my hut comes with its own hazards. The intense rains we’ve had severely weaken the roofs of our mud huts (seeing as they’re made of mud) and many people are killed each year by collapsing roofs. And to think, I was just scared of the scorpions and creepy crawlies.
I also haven’t been able to get to my market town because the road was under water until this past
Thursday. The mosquitoes are still a menace but they’ll only be around for a few weeks which seem totally manageable after getting two rainy seasons under my belt.
I had a pretty entertaining conversation with my homologue the other day. There is a pretty common belief among Malians living on bruce that all white people know each other. I can honestly see how this misconception was created as the only white people many Malians on bruce know are Peace Corps volunteers who seem to all know each other. Thus, the other day I was asked about this white person who they couldn’t remember the name of. They described a tall guy who lived nearby. I guessed all the volunteers who just left and they finally remembered the name and said he was a volunteer who served in 1996-98…and they couldn’t understand how and why I did not know him.
If anyone would like an enjoyable read I’ll recommend a book I’ve just finished. It’s called Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. It’s a man’s journey from Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa and all the countries in between down eastern Africa. He is a sarcastic and insightful writer who both answers questions, raises them, is painfully honest and at times just a stubborn old man. Through his travels he evaluates social, political and economic problems facing the continent while providing incredibly vivid written pictures. While Mali is on the other side of the continent, I laughed out loud at some of the descriptions that are spot on accurate of life here. The death trap of African transport, the stability on bruce vs the chaos of city, the bribes demanded by the police, endless corruption, lack of food security, misguided donor money, etc are all detailed in the book. The author was a Peace Corps volunteer long ago and it was interesting to see some of the similar views we shared with regard to development work among other things.
September 22 was the 50th anniversary of Malian Independence and we had a huge party in my commune capital, Bolokalasso. It was no comparison to Bamako where there were military and police and many others paraded through the streets of Bamako and there were parachutes and heads of state from all over Africa who were in attendance. I was more than happy to celebrate in my village with my village hunters dressing up in traditional dress and shooting off their guns after each speech by the local figureheads like the mayor and police and doctor. There was singing and dancing and a big feast of rice, but the highlight of the party was the kids potato sack races and their version of a piñata. A bunch of little cakes were tied to a tree and the kids were blindfolded and spun around and left to wonder aimlessly with their arms stretched out grabbing the air for the treats. It was hilarious!
I wasn’t planning on coming into San today, but I unexpectedly got to set up a meeting with a man to finish legalizing our paperwork for the animal raising cooperation I’m starting in my village. Things are standstill for weeks and then I have to drop everything and get to work but such is life in Mali and I’m grateful to continue the process. Once we get the actual papers I’m scheduling a small conference in my village led by a Peace Corps orator on proper management of the cooperation as well the potential for profit they now have being legally recognized by the government. Of course this means they need to start some sort of bookkeeping as currently my homologue is the only one with any sort of idea how much money he is putting into the sheep before he sells them to know his profit margin.
I’ll probably be at site for a while unless I have another unexpected meeting arise which is always a possibility, but in all likelihood, I’ll write again the next time I have internet which will probably be around October 15th when I head up to Sevare for two or three days.
All my love,
Cait
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